When I get up to the seventh floor of the Hotel Fort Des Moines, I inhale and think, “grandma’s house.” Not my grandma, though not unlike my grandma—it’s the essence of grandparents: dark, out-of-date colors and most of all that smell, like baby powder, Neutrogena hand soap, and something else—is it aging wallpaper paste? It’s been two months since my last visit, and I’m so glad to be back.
I love the inside of this building. I love the mottled green carpeting, the luxurious down-at-heel-ness of the rooms. The way it’s hard to find the light switch and when you do there’s the floral bedspread, the wallpaper with its ticking stripe, the few spots of rust on the sliding door of the medicine cabinet in the bathroom. I have waited all day to take my things out of the green backpack, hang some of them in the closet and spread the others out on the luggage rack. To take my toiletries out of the ziploc bag; they’re all in tiny little bottles (thanks, Muji); I’ve gotten so good at traveling in the last eight months, shuttling back and forth from New York City to Iowa, and a couple vacations but this is business. Which doesn’t mean it isn’t fun too, unloading the books and folders and power cords from my handbag, placing things in neat stacks with plenty of right angles before going downstairs for dinner. The guy at the front desk greeted me in the fashion of someone who isn’t overtaxed by human interaction, and I appreciate that after New York. He has short hair, wears tiny studs in his ears, and seems genuinely pleased to welcome me.
There’s a storm front moving across the country. My weather widget warned of a Wednesday low of zero degrees. It isn’t that cold yet but the snow is expected. I am a little frightened of the possibility of intense cold but maybe excited even more than that. I unpacked the black leggings that I can wear under my jeans if necessary, set them on the luggage rack. Walking here from the office, the lights of town and the Christmas lights look sensational in the cold. Our courtesy driver from the airport says the only sign she’s had of global warming in her own life is that when she was a girl there were municipal skating rinks at some lagoons downtown, and that the same lagoons no longer reliably freeze. Yesterday in New York felt seasonably cool but it’s been a sickeningly warm November. And so the cold is bracing, seems right. I read the paper on the airplane and I’m thinking about the climate summit in Copenhagen, wanting to read more, trying to hold onto a diffuse sense of hopefulness.
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